About Savista

Savista is a boutique heritage hotel in Jaipur. Nestled in the Rajasthan countryside, this estate of an erstwhile Kacchawa Rajput chieftain combines the luxury of a traditional haveli with state-of-the-art amenities and a modern ethos of eco-friendly travel.

To spray or not to spray?

Marrying hospitality and sustainability is easier some days than others. Sometimes it is a matter of choosing one product over another.  Or reading labels carefully. Or paying a little bit more for organic or local products.  But then at other times, the decision is a bit harder, and opting for the sustainable solution can result in some loss of business.

Rajasthan’s monsoon season this year was longer and more intense than usual.  Although, in normal years, the rainy season is one of the nicest times of year in Rajasthan – occasional cooling showers, cloudy skies, gorgeous weather – the heavier than usual rains and consequent heightened humidity this year made for a more-fecund-than-usual insect population.  And, particular to this post, brown-grasshoppers-with-green-stripes.   During a week and a half over July/August, insects swarmed around, led by these grasshoppers.  And at the end of this period, as suddenly as they arrived, they were gone.

 Most homeowners are aware that at certain times of the year, you are at risk of an invasion by different forms of insect life. But truth be told, these are not issues that guests are willing to put up with while on holiday.
Our brown-grasshoppers-with-green-stripes (which were more like suicide bombers than lowly insects) catapulted themselves at any doors and windows through which they could see light. They didn’t manage to get into the rooms (because we kept all doors closed), but we did have to suffer their presence in open spaces that were proximate to lighted rooms. Each evening for that week and a half, after the sun went down, hundreds of them would appear in the courtyard, and jump and fling themselves against the glass until they met their death. But the wonderful silver lining was that, come morning, our deceased invaders were oh so neatly cleaned up by starlings who roamed the courtyard to feast on the readily available food.Now, change and flux with the seasons is very natural. But when one is meant to be serving guests a relaxing and elegant experience, these two are not mutually exclusive. We are then faced with a dilemma.  Do we eliminate these creatures, using sprays and chemicals as other hotels and hospitality centers would do?  Such an action is in direct violation of our commitment to an environmental code of ethics.  So are we then to close our doors to guests?  Or do we allow visitors, and claim that because of our all-natural approach and our respect for the surprises that nature brings, we all (guests included) simply have to deal with such pests?

It seems to me that we are in a bit of a pickle:  Either we hamper our guests’ experience, because not all visitors would appreciate acting with such restraint in terms of biological pest control.  Or we turn away guests, because they won’t get the real Savista experience.

We simply cannot control the influx of grasshoppers flying over the haveli walls and into the courtyard. But we can limit the use of  lights, which serves to attract fewer of our grasshopper friends.  This is what we did this year: use of minimal electric lights in the rooms and open spaces and, in their place, plenty of oil-lit lamps and candles.

I defer to our readers- past and potential guests alike: should we accept natural fluxes and expect our guests to do so also? Or make an exception and use chemical pest sprays?

Here are links that expose the harms of conventional chemical pest sprays:

http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/002763.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_impact_of_pesticides

Inform yourselves!  And share a guests perspective with the Team at Savista!

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Tour of Bagru’s Block Printing Sector

photo taken by Jeremy Fritzhand

About a month ago we had two lovely visitors from the U.A.E. come to stay at Savista. And from our first meeting, they clearly expressed interest in textiles, even sharing with us pages torn from a magazine highlighting the beauty of authentic textiles of Jaipur. The couple was most interested in purchasing textiles, less interested in witnessing the process (entirely understandable on a short trip to Jaipur).  So we shared our knowledge of the best shops to go hunting for authentic Jaipur textiles, told them a little but about our relationship with the neighboring block printing town of Bagru, and sent them on their way.

The two came back exhausted loaded with shopping bags, and at some point during that day asked to hear a bit more about Bagru.  Our block printing workshops.  And our half day tours to the printing workshops.  Bagru, only 8 km from Savista, is home to artisans of the Chhipa community who are renowned for their style of hand block printed cottons.  They have kept this beautiful tradition – using mostly natural fabrics and vegetable based dyes – alive in Bagru for at least 350 years. The long life of this craft is attributable to its prime natural environment.

Considering that Jaipur is known for its history, architecture and, one must not forget the crafts using precious stones, gold and silver, leather, textiles, etc. we expect many of our guests to have made a note whether mental or in their travel books that these are the things to see or buy while in the Jaipur area. This very reasonable notion encouraged us to strengthen our relationship with our friends in Bagru, hoping to bring the interested parties directly to the source of block printed textiles.

The men and women of the Chhipa community produce beautiful meters of fabric day in and day out, without much of a notion of where their fabric will be going and what it will become. Their products are sold at a distance from the environment in which they are produced, and visitors who come to buy textiles in Jaipur do not get to see the hard work, time and care that goes into each meter of fabric.  So, the half day tours and the block printing workshops were created by Savista – working with a few select artisans of Bagru – to showcase this beautiful art form.

Now, our couple from the U.A.E opted for the half-day tour to Bagru. It was long enough to see each step of the process: from the carving of the block, to the dyeing of the fabric, the block printing, the drying,  and examples of the final product in various styles. Of course, no length of fabric can be chosen, a block carved, fabric dyed, printed, possibly dyed again, maybe even printed on once or twice more, dried and sold, within a half day time-frame. And because of the natural time constraints built into the process, our guests taking the tour to Bagru get to visit the Chhipa community, see the carving of the block in one shop, the dyeing in another home/workshop, etc. etc.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This tour opens up many types of opportunities: the opportunity to see a community beyond its bazaars, with a local at hand to answer questions. The chance to see workshops of many different shapes and sizes, as well as varying printing techniques such as Dabu:  printing with mud such that further layers can be printed atop and the mud can be washed away leaving negative space. And, finally, the opportunity to see the finished work of a master printer, and share a cup of chai with him.

 

I hope that you have enjoyed the photos of our Bagru trip and should you want to learn more about our half day trips to Bagru or blockprinting workshops, please visit: http://www.savista.com/block-printing.html or contact us at: info@savista.com

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BIRDWATCH: The Blue Bearded Bee-Eater & Black Crowned Night Heron

Hurrah! In the wake of the prolonged and heavy rains this year, we have two new bird sightings to report from the Savista garden!

Our most recent residents are the Blue Bearded Bee-Eater and the Black-Crowned Night Heron. It is possible that the Blue Bee-Eater may have got drawn to our luxuriant winged insect life that has undergone an additional growth spurt with the rains. The Black-Crowned Night Heron probably feels attracted to our ponds, which are currently alive with uncle and grandfather frogs and lots of jumpy babies.

The Blue Bearded Bee-Eater (30-34 cm) is much larger than his cousin the Green Bee-Eater (21 cm), who is one of Savista’s more ubiquitous residents. The Blue variety normally lives in the hill forests of the Central and Eastern Himalayas and the Western and Eastern Ghats of peninsular India, and in the forested parts of Madhya Pradesh; it is a rare pleasure to have it choose our lush-with-the-rains-tree-covered-estate, even if it is only for a seasonal visit. Greyish-green above and bluer on the forehead, blue along the centre of throat to breast and along the wings, and with a long tail that lacks long central pins (a characgteristic of the Green bee-Eater), the Blue Bee-Eater looks quite at home at Savista, perched high up in the garden and on the haveli’s terrace, making its harsh korr-korr croaking notes as it keeps a look-out for juicy insects.

We spotted the Black-Crowned Night Heron one late evening quite by chance. He was standing at the edge of what used to be our horses’ drinking water pond (that has now been taken over by water plants and frogs), motionless and totally absorbed by something in the water that he was looking at. It was his apparent unflappability which had us watching him closely until it became too dark for us to see clearly. This heron is small but heavy, its plumage mostly grey, black and white, with a black head, back and crest, a white forehead and very long white feathers. The species is nocturnal, shy and secretive, which is probably why we have never spotted it since. It roosts in trees during the day, and arrives at its feeding grounds by dusk – ponds and marshes containing fish, frogs and aquatic insects – where it continues to feed through the night until early morning. It is resident all over India.

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Water Bodies Around Savista

The rains have been particularly bountiful in Jaipur this monsoon season.  And Savista and its environs have benefited greatly from nature’s generosity.

On Tuesday September 6, the sixth day after Ganesh Chaturthi, we decided to go in search of a water body in which to immerse our Ganesha – the turmeric representation of the god of auspicious beginnings that had been sanctified in our puja just a few days earlier.

We did not have to go far.  Less than 20 km from Savista stretched the brimming reservoir of Hingonia.  There was water for as far as the eye could see.  We drove along a winding country road  that took us through green fields and little villages.  We passed by men in white tunics and dhotis, colourful turbans, gleaming earrings, and luxuriant moustaches who pointed to the road ahead, until we stopped in astonishment at the largest expanse of water any of us has ever seen near Savista.

And here is a beautiful classical south Indian rendering of the popular composition Vathapi Ganapthim Bhaje in the raga Hamsadhwani, on the guitar.  Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gO8faakv_34

 

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Festivals of Rajasthan: Ganesh Chaturthi

Ganesh Chaturthi – the festival in adoration of Ganesha – was celebrated all overIndiaon September 1.    The elephant-headed Ganesha is revered as the god of auspicious beginnings.  His representation –   an outsized elephant head that sits on a human body consisting of a huge round belly, four arms , and two legs – could mystify the average traveller unfamiliar with the nuances of Indian mythology.   

The fact is that every aspect of Ganesha’s  representation is replete with complex and profound symbolisms.  The multiple ‘gods’ in Indian mythology are essentially symbolisms, meant to empower people at all levels of intellectual development to deal with their relationships towards their material and spiritual worlds.  Underlying the whole is the dialectic that the very formlessness of god is best understood through awesome form. 

Ganesha’s form symbolizes the balance between the spiritual and material that all human beings need to strive for.  At its simplest.  The elephant symbolizes strength of mind, tenacity and singularity of purpose, and the wisdom to know what is the right action, all of it expressed through  effortlessness (the quality of the elephant, of simply uprooting and throwing  aside the obstacles in its path).  Equanimity, i.e., the ability (accompanied by wisdom) to digest both the good and bad in our material world (symbolized by the big stomach) is as important an attribute as effortlessness.  Of the two principal arms, one hand is held up in a gesture of protection (the confidence and security that right action brings).  The other hand gently points down to the earth   (the ultimate truth that everything  arises from the earth and eventually returns to it).  A third hand holds sweets  – laddoos – symbolising  the fruits of right action, while the fourth holds an axe – ankush -  with which to pierce through the veil of ignorance.   The vehicle on which Ganesha rides  is a tiny mouse.  The mouse represents desire.  Desire is a reality, but unless kept under control it could cause havoc. 

 

The symbolism of Ganesha essentially draws our attention to these qualities.  In the ultimate analysis, Ganesha is the wisdom that rests within us.  We need to go within and discover ourselves.     

At Savista, we celebrated Ganesh Chaturthi with a simple puja (worship).  In the puja, Ganesha was sanctified as a simple rough little mound of turmeric powder pressed together by hand, symbolic of having been drawn from nature, and to be returned to nature (when immersed in a water body by the end of ten days,  as per the custom). Also in the puja were other representations from nature:   flowers, incense, flaming oil lamps and camphor, fruits, coconuts, betel leaves.  The puja was not so much a religious occasion as a reminder to all of us of the symbolisms of Ganesha.  The person leading the puja invoked Ganesha’s blessings for all those at Savista and their families, and for the success of Savista’s mission.

And here is Susheela Raman singing a south Indian classical kriti (composition) dedicated to Ganesha, set to a South Indian-Afro-Jazz beat. Enjoy the music!

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WpFqyl_yKg

 

 

 

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Eid Ul Fitr

On August 30th., Muslims in Jaipur celebrate with Muslims across the world, the conclusion of the thirty days of the fasting month of Ramadan.  It is an Eid (festivity), and because it marks the end of Ramadan, it is called Ramadan Eid.   Its more classical name is Eid Ul Fitr, a celebration of Fitr (the restoration of one’s original nature, i.e., pure and unsullied).

Because this restoration is arrived at through a combination of fasting and prayer, it establishes the power of the spiritual realm over the realm of the physical.  In keeping with this spirit of self-purification, it is a day to give up all enmities and hostility.

Eid is a communally celebrated festival, and the prayers on that day – offered in the open – are designed to reinforce the sense of community.

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better late than never….

A few posts have been piling up here at Savista. One on Eid, another on Ganesha. So we hope that you will welcome them like a well meaning belated birthday card, a chance to celebrate for another day, to savor the sweetness a little bit longer….. :)

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Sorting at Savista

Here at Savista we pride ourselves on our commitment to an environmental ethic. Over the past few years our sustainability initiatives have been big and small, some only discernable to the critical eye, and others in plain sight. This list includes the decision to paint the roof white in compliance with the albedo effect, solar water heaters and a chemical-free freshwater pool that also waters the garden and recharges the aquifer. We have not plastered the place with Reduce, Reuse, Recycle signs and buzzwords as one would if these measures were in accordance with a fad, but have instead incorporated these environmentally friendly measures into the lifestyle of Savista, quietly installing low-flow shower-heads, dual flush toilets, CFL light bulbs and energy conservation appliances that are here to stay.

So, what next?  A very important component of one’s carbon footprint after energy, meat consumption and transportation is WASTE! It seems that it is time to look closely at our waste, and ask some important questions. Where did it come from? What is it made of? And when we are done with it, where should it go?

Up until this point we have composted our organics and recycled our bottles and cans, but because the production of non-organic waste is so minimal, disposal has never been a pressing issue. But even with limited production, these remain important questions and often times lead to positive self-reflection, an inquisitive mind and creative action.

STEP ONE: SORTING. We have created a space where we can sort our waste into the following categories: plastics, metals, electronic waste, paper, cardboard, batteries and light bulbs. The categories will expand as time goes on, but for now this is all that we have come across.

Responsibly disposing of one’s waste becomes much more difficult in a rural location. In the city, one can feel pleased to have sorted out recyclables and place them outside to be collected. The process is not as simple in the countryside. Waste is typically burned or buried here. And only that which one receives a return on will be collected, but what about the rest? Burying toxics such as light bulbs, batteries and electronic waste in an unlined pit can lead to chemicals leaching into the groundwater. And burning of such toxics is another type of harmful pollution to the air and lungs.

STEP TWO: RESEARCH. That brings us to step two. As we come to the end of our products lifecycle, we will sort and hold these materials while research as to their proper disposal continues. This is where we stand currently, in the research phase, having taken a pledge to dispose with our products properly (step three), to change our purchasing patterns (step four) to limit waste accumulation, and to focus on reusable items (step five).

There will be plenty to come on this subject, look out for further posts showcasing Savista’s progress as well as some tips to a more environmentally responsible lifestyle!

For more food for thought, check out: www.storyofstuff.com ! Annie Leonard does a wonderful job of putting the lifecycle of our products into perspective: harvesting materials to disposal, enjoy!

 

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Festivals of Rajasthan: Krishna Janmashtami

Today is one of the most important and loved festivals of the Hindu calendar – the birth of Lord Krishna.  On this 8th. day (ashtami) after the full moon in the month of Shravan, at the stroke of midnight, the birth (janma) of Krishna is heralded in homes and temples across
the country with the blowing of conch shells, devotional music and ecstatic dancing and, by many, with fasting, prayer and the reading and recitation of the Bhagavatam (the philosophy expounded by Krishna).

Krishna is loved and worshipped across India, and there are as many forms of worship and expressions of devotion as there are qualities that are attributed to Krishna.  At the simplest level, Krishna is protector and saviour.   At the most complex, Krishna is the epitomy of love, oneness, and absence of boundaries as the only way to true happiness, self discovery and liberation.

Krishna’s significance has been summed up by Osho thus:

“ Man’s mind has always wanted to choose between the seeming opposites.  He wants to preserve heaven and do away with hell.  He wants to have peace and escape tension.  He wants to protect good and destroy evil.  He longs to accept light and deny darkness.  He craves to cling to pleasure and shun pain.  His mind has always divided existence into two parts, and chosen one part against the other.  And from choice arises duality, which brings conflict and pain.

Krishna symbolizes acceptance of the opposites together.  And he alone can be whole who accepts the contradictions together.  One who chooses will always be incomplete, less than the whole,  because the part that he chooses will continue to delude him, and the part that he denies will continue to pursue and haunt him.  He can never be rid of what he rejects and represses…”

The revolutionary and potentially destabilizing challenge of accepting the entire symbolism of Krishna has led most people through the ages to focus on one or the other of his multiple and complex attributes.  The most popular and beloved are of Krishna as the divine child, and Krishna as the divine lover.  Both these identities, with love and longing as the central theme, have been celebrated with an outpouring of poetry, music and dance in both classical and common languages across India.

Krishna Janmashtami is celebrated with tremendous fervour in Jaipur.  And the epicenter for these celebrations is the Govind Devji Temple.  The temple was  built 450 years ago by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh – the founder of the city of Jaipur – within the City Palace complex, as the home for the resident deity of the royal family.  Designed in marble and pink sandstone and adorned with the most exquisitely carved latticed marble window screens, the Govind Devji temple  is well worth a visit just for its architecture and ambience of peace and beauty.  On occasions like Janmashtami it explodes with colour and energy.  Thousands of worshippers throng it, and ecstatic music and dancing accompany the ringing of the temple bells.

Check out this video on youtube! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1nBiI05gl78&feature=related

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TREEING OFF AT SAVISTA: The Khejri

The Khejri trees on the Savista estate that were pruned (and some pollarded) last winter, have all got back their dense green foliage. The sheep in the area are probably already eyeing their winter feed, and if there is a ‘social network’ that is active among them, the message has probably already gone out that Savista’s trees are looking good enough to eat!

Many guests ask us about this tree, since it looks even more interesting when it has been pruned. And you can see lots and lots of stark-looking trunks in the area during winter, the traditional pruning season! So we thought we’d start our “Treeing Off” section in this blog with a little bit about the Khejri.

The Khejri is an iconic tree of Rajasthan. It is so admirably suited to the ecology of the region that it has acquired a whole body of folklore and cultural significance for the local people.

It is drought and frost resistant and can withstand the most extreme of temperatures. Its deep and extensive root system stabilizes the soil in the face of fierce desert winds. Its tough roots travel long distances below the ground in search of the tiniest drops of water. This water is carefully absorbed by every part of the tree until it reaches the miniscule green-yellow leaves. The leaf-size is clear evidence of evolution at work, because the foliage stays green round the year. Being a legume, the Khejri fixes nitrogen in the soil, and the nutritious fallen leaves further fertilize it. Hence farmers ensure that these trees are spaced out across their fields.

Every part of the Khejri tree is useful to the local animal and the human population. The leaves that serve as both fresh and dry fodder are relished by the local sheep and camels. The generously-tufted branches provide welcome shade. The trunk is virtually termite-proof and is used in house-construction. The bark is used for the preparation of local medicines in the ancient Ayurvedic tradition, for common respiratory and stomach infections. The fragrant resin makes for excellent firewood. The green beans are cooked into a delicious vegetable dish; they are dehydrated by villagers for use through the year, and are also fed to farm animals in drought conditions.

So iconic is the tree that no Rajasthani wedding feast is complete without the vegetarian dish Khair Sangri prepared from the Khejri’s green beans. And it is treated as sacred by the legendary environment-worshipping Rajasthani agricultural community called Bishnois (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bishnois). We’ll leave that for another post ☺ .

Savista has over 150 Khejri trees, and many of them are several decades old. New trees can be seen coming up here and there all over the estate, born from fruits dropped by birds who feed on the beans. Every three years, in the winter, Savista’s Khejri trees are pruned by rotation, in keeping with local farming practices. Migrant sheep farmers offer to do the pruning, in return for being able harvest and bag the leaves which serve as a nutritious fodder for the sheep. The small twigs are used by them as firewood. During the pruning period, they live with their flocks on the host farm, and the animals’ droppings act as fertilizer for the soil.

At Savista we use the chopped branches to light our autumn and winter fires – in some of our guest rooms which have fireplaces, in our dining room and bar lounge, and for the evening bonfires around which guests share drinks and swap stories on chilly evenings.
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Botanical info: Prosopsis Cineraria, species of flowering tree in the pea family, Fabaceae. Native to arid zones of West and South Asia, such as the Arabian and Thar deserts. Other common names are Ghaf (Arabic), Sangri (Rajasthani), Kandi (Sindhi). State Tree of Rajasthan and Provincial Tree of the Sindh Province of Pakistan.
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prosopis_cineraria)

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